標準編號:	FZ/T 81006-2017
中文名稱:	牛仔服裝
英文名稱:	Jeanswear
行業分類:	FZ    紡織行業標準
發布機構:	中華人民共和國工業和信息化部
發布日期:	2017-04-12
實施日期:	2017-10-1
標準狀態:	valid
替代舊標準:	FZ/T 81006-2007 牛仔服裝
翻譯語言:	英文
文件格式:	PDF
中文字符數:	19000 字
翻譯價格(元):	450.0
交付時間:	付款后 1 個工作日

Codeofchina.com is in charge of this English translation. In case of any doubt about the English translation, the Chinese original shall be considered authoritative. This standard is developed in accordance with the rules given in GB/T 1.1-2009. This standard replaces FZ/T 81006-2007 Jeanswear; the following technical changes have been made with respect to FZ/T 81006-2007 (the previous edition): ——The application scope of the standard is modified (see Chapter 1; Chapter 1 of 2007 Edition); ——The "Normative References" is supplemented and modified (see Chapter 2; Chapter 2 of Edition 2007); ——The terms of unwashed jeanswear and washed jeanswear in English are modified; the terms and definitions of general jeanswear and color jeanswear are canceled (see Chapter 3; Chapter 3 of Edition 2007); ——The requirements of instruction are supplemented (see 4.1; 4.1 of Edition 2007); ——The requirements of raw material are modified: the requirements of shell fabric and lining fabric are modified; the requirements of "decorative lace" and "drawstrings, cords and elastic cords" of auxiliary materials are added; the requirements of button, decorative button, zipper and other accessories are modified (see 4.3, 4.3of Edition 2007); ——The requirements on wrap and weft yarn directions are modified (see 4.4; 4.4 of Edition 2007); ——The requirements of splicing are canceled (4.5 of Edition 2007); ——The provisions and requirements of appearance defects as well as the expression of table note are modified (see 4.6; 4.7 of Edition 2007); ——The requirements of sewing are modified: the specifications of thick thread and thin thread are specified; the requirements of sewing button are canceled; the requirements of trademark and permanent label are modified (see 4.7; 4.8 of Edition 2007); ——The requirements of specification and dimension permissible deviation are modified; sleeve length check is carried out according to long sleeve length and short sleeve length respectively, and the expression of table note is modified (see 4.8; 4.9 of Edition 2007); ——The requirements of symmetric parts in ironing appearance are modified (see 4.10; 4.11 of Edition 2007); ——The requirements for physical and chemical performances are modified: the provision "jeanswear for children aged from 36-month to 14-year old shall also meet those specified in GB 31701" is supplemented; the assessment index of color fastness to light is modified; the assessment requirements regarding to products for infants and young children of color fastness are canceled; the assessment index of breaking strength is modified; the assessment index of wear resistance permissible degree of finished product shell fabric is modified; the assessment index of seam slippage at main parts of the finished product is modified; the assessment requirements on peeling strength of fusible interlining are canceled; the assessment requirements on adhesion fastness of jeans button are added; the assessment requirements on appearance after washing are added; the requirements on basic safety performance of finished product are modified (see 4.11; 4.12 of Edition 2007); ——The measurement method of appearance determination is modified: the measurement methods of specification, dimension and yarn skewness degree are modified (see 5.3; 5.3 of Edition 2007); ——Physical and chemical performances test is supplemented: the cage-rotating drying temperature for dimensional change after washing is supplemented; the sampling position for abrasion resistance is supplemented; the provision and testing method of sampling position for seam slippage are modified; the measurement method for adhesion fastness of jeans button is added; the measurement method for peeling strength of fusible interlining is canceled, the measurement method for appearance after washing is added; the provision "other items of physical and chemical performances shall be tested according to those specified in GB/T 21294" (see 5.4; 5.4 of Edition 2007); ——The inspection rules are modified (see Chapter 6; Chapter 6 of Edition 2007); ——The provisions in Annex A are modified (see Annex A; Annex A of Edition 2007); ——The provisions of Annex B are modified (see Annex B; Annex B of Edition 2007); ——The Annexes C and D in previous edition are canceled (see Annexes C and D of Edition 2007); ——Annex C is added (see Annex C). This standard was proposed by China National Textile and Apparel Council. This standard is under the jurisdiction of SAC/TC 219 National Technical Committee on Garments of Standardization Administration of China. The previous editions of the standard are as follows: ——FZ/T 81006-1992 and FZ/T 81006-2007. Jeanswear 1 Scope This standard specifies terms and definitions, requirements, inspection method, inspection rules as well as marking, packaging, transport and storage of jeanswear. This standard is applicable to jeanswear produced mainly with machine woven jean whose main material is pure cotton or cotton fiber. This standard is not applicable to garments for infants at an age of 36 or less months. 2 Normative References The following referenced documents are indispensable for the application of this document. For dated references, only the edition cited applies. For undated references, the latest edition of the referenced document (including any amendments) applies. GB/T 250 Textiles - Tests for Colour Fastness - Grey Scale for Assessing Change in Colour GB/T 1335 (All parts) Standard Sizing Systems for Garments GB/T 3917.1 Textiles - Tear Properties of Fabrics - Part 1: Determination of Tear Force Using Ballistic Pendulum Method (Elmendorf) GB/T 3921-2008 Textiles - Tests for Colour Fastness - Colour Fastness to Washing with Soap or Soap and Soda GB/T 3923.2 Textiles - Tensile Properties of Fabrics - Part 2: Determination of Maximum Force Using the Grab Method GB 5296.4 Instructions for Use of Products of Consumer Interest - Part 4: Textiles and Apparel GB/T 6529 Textiles - Standard Atmospheres for Conditioning and Testing GB/T 8427-2008 Textiles - Tests for Color Fastness - Color Fastness to Artificial Light: Xenon Arc Fading Lamp Test GB/T 8629-2001 Textiles - Domestic Washing and Drying Procedures for Textile Testing GB/T 8630 Textiles - Determination of Dimensional Change in Washing and Drying GB/T 14801 Test Method for Skewness and Bow in Woven and Knitted Fabrics GB/T 15557 Standard Terminology Relating to Apparel GB 18401 National General Safety Technical Code for Textile Products GB/T 21196.2 Textiles - Determination of the Abrasion Resistance of Fabrics by the Martindale Method - Part 2: Determination of Specimen Breakdown GB/T 21294 Testing Methods of Physical and Chemical Performance of Garments GB/T 29862 Textiles - Identification of Fiber Content GB 31701 Safety Technical Code for Infants and Children Textile Products GB/T 31907 Method of Garment Measurement FZ/T 80002 Marking, Packaging, Transportation and Storage for Garments FZ/T 80004 Rule for Garments Delivery Inspection 3 Terms and Definitions For the purposes of this document, the terms and definitions given in GB/T 15557 and the following apply. 3.1 unwashed jeanswear jeanswear with the finished product or applied shell fabric only subjected to desizing and shrink resistant finish while not subjected to washing process and finish 3.2 washed jeanswear jeanswear with the finished product or applied shell fabric subjected to such wash modes as stonewash, enzyme wash, bleach, etc. or various combinations of the wash modes 4 Requirements 4.1 Instruction The instruction shall comply with those specified in GB 5296.4 and GB 31701, with unwashed jeanswear or washed jeanswear indicated; the requirements on special wear process, grinding process, etc. shall be noted in the instruction. 4.2 Standard sizing systems and specifications 4.2.1 The standard sizing system shall be set according to those specified in GB/T 1335. 4.2.2 The specification of main parts shall be designed according to the relevant requirements of GB/T 1335. 4.3 Raw materials 4.3.1 Shell fabric Select shell fabric meeting the quality requirements of this standard according to the standards relevant to textile fabric of the nation. 4.3.2 Lining fabric Lining fabric suitable for the applied shell fabric and conforming to the quality requirements of this standard shall be adopted. 4.3.3 Auxiliary materials 4.3.3.1 Lapping cloth, shoulder pad, border lace and bagging The lapping cloth, shoulder pad, border lace and bagging suitable to the performance of the applied shell fabric and lining fabric shall be adopted, and their quality shall be in accordance with those specified in this standard. 4.3.3.2 Suture, drawstrings and elastic cord Suture, drawstrings and elastic cord suitable to the performance of applied shell fabric, lining fabric and auxiliary materials shall be adopted (expect ornamental thread and tape). 4.3.3.3 Button, zipper and other attached accessories Buttons (except ornamental buttons), zippers and other accessories suitable for the applied shell fabric shall be adopted. The button, ornamental button, zipper and other accessories shall be smooth in surface and free from burr, damage, defect or accessible sharp tip or edge. Zippers shall well mesh and run smoothly. Note: accessible sharp tip or edge refers to the sharp tip and edge on finished product that may hurt human skin under normal wearing. Children's clothing shall also meet the relevant requirements of GB 31701.

Foreword i 1 Scope 2 Normative References 3 Terms and Definitions 4 Requirements 5 Inspection (Testing) Method 6 Inspection Rules 7 Marking, Packaging, Transport and Storage Annex A (Normative) Description for Appearance Defects and Severity Annex B (Normative) Test Methods for Distortion and Distortion Displacement of Jeans (Skirt) Annex C (Normative) Test Method for Adhesion Fastness of Jeans Button

牛 仔 服 裝 1 范圍 本標準規定了牛仔服裝的術語和定義、要求、檢驗方法、檢驗規則以及標志、包裝、運輸和貯存。 本標準適用于以純棉或棉纖維為主要原料的機織牛仔布生產的牛仔服裝。 本標準不適用于年齡在36個月及以下的嬰幼兒服裝。 2規范性引用文件 下列文件對于本文件的應用是必不可少的。凡是注日期的引用文件，僅注日期的版本適用于本文件。凡是不注日期的引用文件，其最新版本(包括所有的修改單)適用于本文件。 GB/T 250 紡織品 色牢度試驗 評定變色用灰色樣卡 GB/T 1335(所有部分)服裝號型 GB/T 3917.1紡織品 織物撕破性能 第1部分：沖擊擺錘法撕破強力的測定 GB/T 3921—2008 紡織品 色牢度試驗 耐皂洗色牢度 GB/T 3923.2紡織品 織物拉伸性能 第2部分：斷裂強力的測定(抓樣法) GB 5296.4消費品使用說明 第4部分：紡織品和服裝 GB/T 6529 紡織品 調濕和試驗用標準大氣 GB/T 8427—2008 紡織品 色牢度試驗 耐人造光色牢度：氤弧 GB/T 8629—2001 紡織品 試驗用家庭洗滌和干燥程序 GB/T 8630 紡織品 洗滌和干燥后尺寸變化的測定 GB/T 14801 機織物與針織物緯斜和弓緯試驗方法 GB/T 15557服裝術語 GB 18401 國家紡織產品基本安全技術規范 GB/T 21196.2紡織品 馬丁代爾法織物耐磨性的測定 第2部分：試樣破損的測定 GB/T 21294服裝理化性能的檢驗方法 GB/T 29862 紡織品 纖維含量的標識 GB 31701嬰幼兒及兒童紡織產品安全技術規范 GB/T 31907服裝測量方法 FZ/T 80002服裝標志、包裝、運輸和貯存 FZ/T 80004服裝成品出廠檢驗規則 3術語和定義 GB/T 15557確立的以及下列術語和定義適用于本文件。 3.1 原色產品unwashed jeanswear 成品或所用面料只經退漿、防縮整理，未經洗滌方式加工整理的牛仔服裝。 3.2 水洗產品washed jeanswear 成品或所用面料經石洗、酶洗、漂洗等洗滌方式或經不同組合洗滌方式加工整理的牛仔服裝。 4 要求 4.1使用說明 使用說明按GB 5296.4和GB 31701規定，且應注明原色產品或水洗產品。有特殊磨損、洗爛工藝等情況應在使用說明中注明。 4.2 號型規格 4.2.1 號型設置按GB/T 1335規定。 4.2.2 主要部位規格按GB/T 1335有關規定自行設計。 4.3原材料 4.3.1 面料 按國家有關紡織面料標準選用符合本標準質量要求的面料。 4.3.2 里料 采用與所用面料相適宜并符合本標準質量要求的里料。 4.3.3 輔料 4.3.3.1 襯布、墊肩、裝飾花邊、袋布 采用與所用面料、里料的性能相適宜的襯布、墊肩、裝飾花邊、袋布，其質量應符合本標準規定。 4.3.3.2縫線、繩帶、松緊帶 采用與所用面料、里料、輔料的性能相適宜的縫線、繩帶、松緊帶(裝飾線、帶除外)。 4.3.3.3鈕扣、拉鏈及其他附件 采用適合所用面料的鈕扣(裝飾扣除外)、拉鏈及其他附件。鈕扣、裝飾扣、拉鏈及其他附件應表面光潔、無毛刺、無缺損、無殘疵、無可觸及銳利尖端和銳利邊緣。拉鏈嚙合良好、光滑流暢。 注：可觸及銳利尖端和銳利邊緣是指在正常穿著條件下，成品上可能對人體皮膚造成傷害的銳利尖端和邊緣。兒童服裝還應符合GB 31701的相關規定。 4.4經緯紗向 4.4.1 上衣前后身、袖子、領面的紗線歪斜程度不大于3％。 4.4.2褲、裙子的紗線歪斜程度不大于2％。 4.5 色差 4.5.1 原色產品：袖縫、擺縫、褲側縫色差不低于4級，其他表面部位高于4級；套裝中的上裝與下裝的色差不低于3-4級；同批次、不同件成衣之間色差不低于3-4級。 4.5.2水洗產品不考核。 4.6外觀疵點 成品各部位的疵點允許存在程度按表l規定。成品各部位劃分見圖1。各部位只允許一種允許存在程度內的疵點。未列入本標準的疵點按其形態，參照表1相似疵點規定。 表1 疵點名稱 各部位允許存在程度 1號部位 2號部位 3號部位 經向疵點 不允許 輕微，總長度2.0 cm或總面積1.0 cm2以下，允許2處 輕微，總長度3.0 cm或總面積1.0 cm2以下，允許2處 緯向疵點 輕微，長度0.5 cm 以下，允許1處 輕微，總長度2.0 cm或總面積1.0 cm2以下，允許2處 輕微，總長度3.0 cm或總面積1.0 cm2以下，允許2處 散布性疵點 不允許 輕微 輕微 破損性疵點 不允許 不允許 不允許 斑漬疵點 不允許 總長度2.0 cm或總面積1.0 cm2以下允許1處 總長度3.0 cm或總面積1.0 cm2以下，允許2處 注1：已注明特殊磨損、洗爛工藝等情況的產品不作為破損性疵點考核。 注2：外觀疵點及程度說明見附錄A。 圖1 圖1(續) 4.7縫制 4.7.1針距密度按表2規定，特殊設計除外。 表2 項 目 針距密度 明暗線 不少于8針/3 cm 包縫線 不少于8針/3 cm 鎖眼 細線 不少于8針/1 cm 粗線 不少于6針/1 cm 注：細線——20 tex及以下縫紉線；粗線——20 tex以上縫紉線。 4.7.2緝縫口袋、串帶袢縫份寬度不小于0.6 cm。 4.7.3所有外露的縫份都要折光邊或包縫(特殊設計除外)。 4.7.4各部位縫制線路順直、整齊、平服、牢固。 4.7.5明線20 cm內不允許接線，20 cm以上允許接線一次，無跳針、斷線。 4.7.6商標和耐久性標簽位置端正、平服。 4.7.7鎖眼定位準確，大小適宜，扣與眼對位，釘扣牢固，扣合力要足夠，套結位置準確，釘扣線不脫散。 4.7.8裝飾物(繡花、鑲嵌等)牢固、平服。 4.8規格尺寸允許偏差 成品主要部位規格尺寸允許偏差按表3規定。 表3 單位為厘米 部位名稱 規格尺寸允許偏差 原色產品 水洗產品 衣長 ±1.0 ±1.5 胸圍 ±1.5 ±2.5 領大 ±0.6 ±1.0 總肩寬 ±0.8 ±1.0 長袖袖長 圓袖 ±0.8 ±1.0 連肩袖 ±1.0 ±1.2 短袖袖長 ±0.6 ±0.8 褲、裙長 ±1.5 ±2.0 腰圍 ±1.0 ±2.0 注：松緊腰圍產品不考核腰圍部位規格尺寸允許偏差。 4.9水洗前扭曲度 成品褲、裙子的水洗前扭曲度不超過2 cm(前后片寬度差異較大的特殊設計不考核)。 4.10整燙外觀 4.10.1外觀整潔、無線頭。 4.10.2對稱部位大小、前后、高低一致。 4.10.3各部位熨燙平服、整潔，無燙黃、水漬、亮光及死痕。 4.11理化性能 成品理化性能按表4規定。36個月以上至14歲兒童穿著的牛仔服裝還應同時符合GB 31701的規定。 表4 項目 分等要求 優等品 一等品 合格品 纖維含量/％ 符合GB/T 29862規定 甲醛含量/(mg/kg) 符合GB 18401規定 pH值 可分解致癌芳香胺染料/(mg/kg) 異味 原色 產品 水洗尺寸變化率a,b/％ 領大 -1.5～+1.0 -2.0～+1.0 -2.5～+1.0 胸圍 -2.0～+1.0 -2.5～+1.0 -3.0～+1.5 衣長 -2.0～+1.0 -2.5～+1.0 -3.0～+1.5 腰圍 -1.5～+1.0 -2.0～+1.0 -2.5～+1.5 褲長、裙長 -2.0～+1.0 -2.5～+1.0 -3.0～+1.5 表4(續) 項目 分等要求 優等品 一等品 合格品 原色產品 色牢度/級 ≥ 耐皂洗 變色 4 3-4 3 沾色 3 2-3 耐干摩擦 沾色 3-4 3 耐光 變色 4 3 耐汗漬 (酸、堿) 變色 4 3-4 3 沾色 3-4 3 耐水 變色 4 3-4 3 沾色 3-4 3 斷裂強力c,f/N ≥ 339 g/m2以上的織物 經向 450 緯向 300 245 g/m2～339 g/m2的織物 經向 300 緯向 250 245 g/m2以下的織物 經向 200 緯向 150 撕破強力c,f/N ≥ 339 g/m2以上的織物 經向 25 緯向 18 245 g/m2～339 g/m2的織物 經向 23 緯向 18 245 g/m2以下的織物 經向 15 緯向 11 水洗 產品 水洗尺寸變化率a,b/％ 領大 -1.5～+1.0 -2.0～+1.5 胸圍 -1.5～+1.0 -2.5～+1.5 衣長 -1.5～+1.0 -2.5～+1.5 腰圍 -1.5～+1.0 -2.5～+1.5 褲長、裙長 -1.5～+1.0 -2.5～+1.5 色牢度/級 ≥ 耐皂洗 變色 4 3-4 沾色 3 2-3 耐干摩擦 沾色 3-4 3 耐光 變色 4 3 耐汗漬 (酸、堿) 變色 4 3-4 沾色 3-4 3 耐水 變色 4 3-4 沾色 3-4 3 表4(續) 項 目 分等要求 優等品 一等品 合格品 水洗 產品 斷裂強力c,f/N ≥ 339 g/m2以上的織物 經向 320 緯向 200 245 g/m2～339 g/m2的織物 經向 250 緯向 150 245 g/m2以下的織物 經向 150 緯向 150 撕破強力c,f/N ≥ 339 g/m2以上的織物 經向 18 緯向 16 245 g/m2～339 g/m2的織物 經向 16 緯向 14 245 g/m2以下的織物 經向 13 緯向 10 耐磨性能c,d,f/次 ≥ 339 g/m2以上的織物 25 000 20 000 339 g/m2及以下的織物 15 000 10 000 縫子紕裂程度e,f/cm ≤ 0.6 褲后襠縫接縫強力f/N 339 g/m2以上的織物 180 ≥ 339 g/m2及以下的織物 140 工字扣附著牢度h 200 N定負荷下不脫落、不破損 水洗后扭曲度g/cm ≤ 2.0 3.0 水洗扭曲度移動g/cm ≤ 1.5 2.5 洗后外觀 不允許出現破損、脫落、銹蝕、變形和明顯扭曲，縫口不允許脫散 注：彈性產品指含有氨綸等彈性纖維的織物。 a領大水洗尺寸變化率僅考核立領產品。 b松緊腰圍產品不考核腰圍尺寸變化率，褶皺處理產品、彈性產品不考核橫向尺寸變化率。 c有特殊磨損、洗爛工藝等情況的產品不考核。 d除牛仔褲外，245 g/m2以下的織物不考核。 e縫子紕裂程度試驗結果出現滑脫、織物斷裂、縫線斷裂、織物撕破，判定為不符合要求。 f無法取樣的產品不考核。 g上裝、短褲(裙)不考核。前后片寬度差異較大的特殊設計不考核。 h僅考核腰頭工字扣。 5檢驗(測試)方法 5.1 檢驗工具 5.1.1鋼卷尺或直尺，分度值為1 mm。 5.1.2評定變色用灰色樣卡(GB/T 250)。 5.1.3牛仔服裝外觀疵點樣照。 5.2規格測定 主要部位規格尺寸測量方法按GB/T 31907規定，規格尺寸允許偏差按表3規定。 5.3外觀測定 5.3.1 外觀檢驗一般采用燈光照明，照度不低于600 lx，有條件時也可采用北空光照明。 5.3.2直、橫向紗線歪斜程度測定按GB/T 14801規定，按式(1)計算結果。 S=100d/W …………………………(1) 式中： S——直向或橫向紗線歪斜程度，％； d——經紗或緯紗與直尺間最大垂直距離，單位為毫米(mm)； W——測量部位寬度，單位為毫米(mm)。 5.3.3評定色差程度時，被評部位應紗向一致。入射光與織物表面約成45°角，觀察方向應垂直于織物表面，距離60 cm目測，與GB/T 250樣卡對比。 5.3.4外觀疵點允許存在程度測定時，距離60 cm目測，并與牛仔服裝外觀疵點樣照對比，必要時采用鋼卷尺或直尺進行測量。 5.3.5成品褲、裙子水洗前扭曲度按4.9規定，測試方法按附錄B規定。 5.3.6針距密度在成品縫紉線跡上任取3 cm測量(厚薄部位除外)。