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This standard replaces GB/T 2664-2001 "Men's Suits and Coats".
The main technical differences between this standard and GB/T 2564-2001 are as follows:
——Modify scope of the standard;
——Supplement normative references;
——Supplement contents for product instructions for use;
——Modify contents of appearance defects;
——Add the requirements for assessing such contents as pH value, dissolvable carcinogenic aromatic amines dye, peculiar smell, dimensional change ratio after washing and tearing strength of the shell fabric;
——Add the requirements for assessing such contents as colour fastness to soaping, color fastness to wet friction, color fastness to water and colour fastness to light;
——Modify requirements for assessing the slipping;
——Modify the contents for judging the finished product quality defects;
——Modify contents for judging the appearance of a single piece;
——Modify contents in Appendix A.
Appendix A of this standard is normative.
This standard is proposed by China National Textile And Apparel Council.
This standard is under the jurisdiction of National Technical Committee on Garments of Standardization Administration of China (SAC/TC 219).
National Technical Committee on Garments of Standardization Administration of China is responsible for explaining this standard.
Chief drafting organizations of this standard: Shanghai Garment Research Institute, Hangzhou Institute of Calibration and Testing for Quality and Technical Supervision, Wenzhou Institute of Technology Testing & Quality, Ningbo Shanshan Corporation, Zhejiang Giuseppe Uniform Co. Ltd., Romon Group Co., Ltd., Jodoll Group Co., Ltd., Ningbo Youngor Suits Plant, Fujian Seven Brand Group Co., Ltd., Lilanz (China) Group Co. Ltd., Zhejiang Dongmeng Garment Co. Ltd. and Sinoer Menswear Co. Ltd.
Chief drafting staffs of this standard: Xu Jian, Gu Hongfeng, Lin Ouwen, Lin Yuemei, Lin Depei, Sheng Zhifei, Shen Yingqin, Zhang Mingjie, Hong Zhaoshe, Wang Congxing, Chi Huijie, Wang Guibo, She Yayuan and Qin Wei.
The previous editions of the standards replaced by this standard are as:
——GB/T 2664-1993 and GB/T 2664-2001.
NATIONAL STANDARD
OF THE PEOPLE'S REPUBLIC OF CHINA
中華人民共和國國家標準
GB/T 2664-2009
Men’s Suits and Coats
男西服、大衣
1 Scope
This standard specifies the requirements, test methods, classification rule for inspection and marking, packing, transport and storage for the men's suits and coats.
This standard is applicable to woolen garments, such as men's suits and coats mainly made of woven fabrics such as wool, wool blended and interweaved fabrics and wool-like fabrics .
2 Normative References
The following standards contain provisions which, through reference in this standard, constitute provisions of this standard. For dated reference, subsequent amendments to (excluding correction to), or revisions of, any of these publications do not apply. However, all parties coming to an agreement according to this standard are encouraged to study whether the latest edition of these documents is applicable. For undated references, the latest edition of the normative document is applicable to this standard.
GB/T 250 TextilesTests for Colour FastnessGrey Scale for Assessing Change in Colour
GB/T1335.1 Standard Sizing Systems for GarmentsMen
GB/T 1335.3 Standard Sizing Systems for Garments-Children
GB/T 2910 Textile-Binary Fibre Mixtures-Quantitative Chemical Analysis
GB/T 2911 Textile-Ternary Fibre Mixture-Quantitative Chemical Analysis
GB/T 2912.1 Textile-Determination of Formaldehyde-Part 1: Free and Hydrolyzed Formaldehyde (Water Extraction Method)
GB/T 3917.2 Textiles-Tear Properties of Fabrics-Part 2: Determination of Tear Force of Trouser-shaped Test Specimens (Single Tear Method)
GB/T 3920 Textiles-Tests for Colour Fastness-Colour Fastness to Rubbing
GB/T 3921 Textile-Tests for Colour Fastness-Colour Fastness to Soaping
GB/T 4802.1 Textiles-Determination of Fabric Propensity to Surface Fuzzing and to Pilling-Part 1: Circular Locus Method
GB/T 4841.3 Colour Card of Standard Depth for Dyeing with Dyestuffs 2/1, 1/3, 1/6, 1/12, 1/25
GB 5296.4 Instructions for Use of Products of Consumer Interest-Instructions for Use of Textiles and Apparel
GB/T 5711 Textile-Tests for Colour Fastness-Color Fastness to Dry Cleaning
GB/T 5713 Textile-Tests for Colour Fastness-Color Fastness to Water
GB/T 7573 Textiles-Determination of PH of Aqueous Extract
GB/T 8170 Rules of Rounding off for Numerical Values & Expression and Judgment of Limiting Values
GB/T 8427-2008 Textile-Tests for Colour Fastness—Color Fastness to Artificial Light: Xenon Arc
GB/T 8630 Textiles-Determination of Dimensional Change in Washing and Drying
GB/T 14304 Sizes for Woolen Suits
GB/T 16988 Quantitative Determination for Mixtures of Special Animal Fibre and Wool
GB/T 17592 Textile-Determination of the Banned Azo Colourants
GB 18401 National General Safety Technical Code for Textile Products
FZ/T 01026 Textiles-Quantitative Chemical Analysis for Quaternary Fibre Mixtures
FZ/T 01048 Determination Method for Blending Ratio of Silk and Cashmere Blended Textiles
FZ/T 01053 Textiles—Identification of Fiber Content
FZ/T 01057 (All the parts) Test Method for Identification of Textile Fibers
FZ/T 80002 Marking Packaging Transportation and Storage for Garments
FZ/T 80004 Rule for Garments Delivery Inspection
FZ/T 80007.1 Test Method of Peeled off Strength Value for Garments Used Adhesive Interlining
FZ/T 80007.3 Dry Wash Resistance Test Method for Garments Used Adhesive Interlining
3 Requirements
3.1 Instructions for use
Instructions for use shall comply with GB 5296.4 and GB 18401.
3.2 Size and specification
3.2.1 Size setting shall be adopted according to GB/T 1335.1 and GB/T 1335.3.
3.2.2 The specification of the main parts of the finished products shall be designed according to relevant regulations in GB/T 1335.1, GB/T 1335.3 and GB/T 14304.
3.3 Raw materials
3.3.1 Shell fabric
The shell fabric in conformity with quality requirements of this standard shall be adopted according to national standards related to the textile shell fabric.
3.3.2 Lining
The lining suitable for the property and tinct of the shell fabric shall be adopted, except those under special designs.
3.3.3 Accessory fabric
3.3.3.1 Lining fabric
The lining fabric suitable for the property and tinct of the shell fabric shall be adopted.
3.3.3.2 Shoulder pad
Cotton, chemical fiber, etc. shall be adopted.
3.3.3.3 Suture
The suture suitable for the quality of the shell fabric and accessory fabric and the lining shall be adopted. The button thread shall be suitable for the tinct of the button; the trademark pinning thread shall be suitable for the ground colour of the trademark (except the ornamental thread).
3.3.3.4 Button and accessories
The button (except the decoration button) and the accessories suitable for shell fabric used shall be adopted. The button and accessories shall be smooth and durable and free from deformation, colour change, rusting and peeled off of the paint in washing and ironing.
3.4 Warp and weft directions
3.4.1 Front: warp is subjected to the neck width line and not possible to be deflected.
3.4.2 Back: the warp shall be subject to the middle line of the lower back of waistline and the deflection of the suits shall not be larger than 0.5cm and that of the coats shall not be larger than 1.0cm; the checks shall not be deflected.
3.4.3 Sleeve: the warp shall be subjected to the front seam; in terms of the deflection, the top sleeve shall not be larger than 1.0cm and the underside sleeve shall not be larger than 1.5cm (except those under the special technology).
3.4.4 Top collar: the deflection of the weft yarn shall not be larger than 0.5cm and the checks shall not be deflected.
3.4.5 Pocket cover: consistent with the yarn direction of the body piece and the deflected material shall be bilateral symmetry.
3.4.6 Front facing: subject to the warp yarn at the front edge of the lapel and the deflection shall not be deflected.
3.5 Stripes matching and plaid matching
3.5.1 If there are obvious stripes and plaid in the shell fabric at 1.0cm and above 1.0cm, the requirements specified in Table 1 shall be complied with.
Table 1
Position Regulation on stripes matching and plaid matching
Front on the left and right Stripes matching, plaid aligned horizontally and the mutual deviation not larger than 0.3cm.
Breast pocket and front Stripes matching, plaid matching, and mutual deviation not larger than 0.2cm.
Side pocket and front Stripes matching, plaid matching, mutual deviation not larger than 0.3cm.
Sleeve and front Plaid above the elbow line and front aligned horizontally and mutual deviation of two sleeves not larger than 0.5cm.
Sleeve seam Plaid above elbow line and at elbow seam aligned horizontally and mutual deviation not larger than 0.3cm.
Back seam Subject to upper part, strip symmetrical, plaid aligned horizontally and mutual deviation not larger than 0.2cm.
Back seam and back top collar Stripes matching, mutual deviation not larger than 0.2cm.
Collar and lapel Strips and plaid in bilateral symmetry and mutual deviation not larger than 0.2cm.
Side seam At 10 cm below the arm hole, plaid aligned horizontally, and mutual deviation not larger than 0.3cm.
Sleeve Stripe and plaid smooth and straight, subject to sleeve cap, and mutual deviation of two sleeves not larger than 0.5cm.
Note: Those under special design are out of this limit.
3 5.2 If the shell fabric has obvious stripes and plaid at 0.5cm and above 0.5cm, the strip of breast pocket and front matched, plaid matching and mutual deviation not larger than 0.1cm.
3.5.3 As for raw material of velvet and checker board weave, the whole body shall be consistent in the forward-only direction.
3.5 Splicing
The front facing of the coats is permissible to be connected twice and spliced once; the button hole position shall be avoid between the last one to the last but one button holes and the area between two button holes shall be spliced. The suits, coats and flange are permissible to be connected twice and spliced once and the splicing is not permissible at other parts.
3.7 Color difference
The color difference of sleeve seam and side seam shall not be less than Grade 4 and that at other surface positions shall be above Grade 4. The color difference between the coats and pants of the suits shall not be less than Grade 4.
3.8 Appearance defects
The contents to which the defects at each position of the finished products are possible shall be according to those specified in Table 2. See Figure 1 for the division of each position of the finished products.
Table 2
Defect name Degree at each position
No. 1 position No.2 position No.3 position
Yarn defects Not allowable Slight, total length 1.0cm or total area below 0.3cm2; obvious degree not allowable Slight, total length 1.5cm or total area below 0.5cm2; obvious degree not allowable
Neps One Three Five
Strip marking and fold Not allowable Slight, total length 1.5cm or total area below 1cm2; obvious degree not allowable Slight, total length 2.0cm or total area below 1.5cm2; obvious degree not allowable
Mark (oil stain, rusty stain, color spot, water stain, etc.) Not allowable Slight, total area not larger than 0.3cm2; obvious degree not allowable Slight, total area not larger than 0.5cm2; obvious degree not allowable
Hole, abrasion and cobweb Not allowable Not allowable Not allowable
Note 1: The spot at only one position where the degree is within the allowable content is allowable for each position.
Note 2: Slight defects mean those seen not obviously through visual inspection and seen only through careful identification and not obviously; obvious defects mean those seen obviously and having influence on the overall effects.
Note 3: Defects are not allowable to appear at the front top collar and the lapel of the high-class products.
Note 4: In terms of the defects beyond this standard, their forms shall be judged by reference to the similar defects listed in the table.
Figure 1
3.9 Sewing
3.9.1 Stitch size spacing density shall be according to those specified in Table 3 (except those under special design).
Table 3
Items Stitch size spacing density Remark
Open/blind stitch 11~13 stitches in 3cm —
Overseam stitch Not less than 9 stitches in 3cm —
Decorative stitch Not less than 7stitches in 3cm No less than 9 stitches for shoulder seam, arm hole and collar
Manual front edge/machinery front edge Not less than 5 stitches in 3cm —
Herringbone stitch Not less than 5 stitches in 3cm Calculate based on a single side
Button hole Thin thread l2~14 stitches in 1cm —
Thick thread Not less than 9 stitches in 1cm —
Nail catcher Thin thread Not less than 8 threads for each hole Leg wounding thread height suitable for the front edge thickness
Thick thread Not less than 4 threads for each hole
Note: Thin thread means the sewing thread at 20 tex and below it; thick thread means the sewing thread above 20tex.
3.9.2 The sewing line at each position shall be smooth and straight, neat and firm. The sewing shrivel at the main surface position shall be according to "Wrinkling Photograph for the Appearance of the Men's Suits" and shall not be less than Grade 4.
3.9.3 The seam allowance width shall not be less than 0.8cm (except such contents as slit pocket, collar front edge, and seam allowance of top fly). The back stitches shall be provided with at the first and last stitches.
3.9.4 The upper and lower threads have proper stretch without thread jumping, breading, slippage and the connected root thread ends. The bottom thread shall not be exposed.
3.9.5 The collar is flat and the top collar has a proper stretch.
3.9.6 The sleeve shall be stitched roundly and smoothly with the front and back basically consistent.
3.9.7 Binding and batten shall be flat with consistent width.
3.9.8 The gasket material of pocket bag shall be folded at each side or seamed.
3.9.9 The pocket mouth shall be knotted at both ends and back stitches may be carried out with tacking machine or flat seamer at such position.
3.9.10 Fastening stitch shall be carried out firmly at such positions as arm hole, sleeve seam, bottom side, sleeve opening, lining mouth of front facing and side seam of coats.
3.9.11 The button holes shall be positioned accurately and have a proper size; the button shall be directed to the hole regularly and firmly. The button feet have a proper height and the knots are not exposed.
3.9.12 The positions of the trademark, size mark, component mark and washing mark shall be upright, clear and accurate.
3.9.13 The open thread and chain stitch at each position shall not be skipped; the open thread shall not be connected; other seaming stitches shall not have two single skipping or continuous skipping stitch within 30cm and loose thread is not allowable.
3.10 Allowable deviation of the specification at main positions of finished products
According to those specified in Table 4.
Table 4 cm
Position name Allowable deviation
Coat length Suits ±1.0
Coats ±1.5
Chest girth ±2.0
Collar size ±0.6
Total shoulder width ±0.6
Sleeve length Inserting sleeve ±0.7
Raglan sleeve ±1.2
3.11 Appearance quality
Appearance quality shall be according to those specified in Table 5.
Table 5
Position name Appearance quality regulation
Collar Top collar flat, neckhole circle and smooth. Left and right collar point not warped up.
Lapel Gorge line and lapel roll line smooth and straight, width of right and left lapel and collar notch size symmetrical, collar warped properly.
Front edge Smooth and straight, pretty flat, top fly not shorter than under fly without mixture and opening, two round heads size uniform.
Front Chest stiff and smooth and symmetrical, shell and liner matched properly, the way smooth and straight.
Pocket and pocket cover Left and right pockets symmetrical in height and in front and back sides, pocket cover suitable for the pocket opening width, pocket cover consistent with the body piece in terms of pattern.
Back Flat.
Shoulder Shoulder flat, no folding on the surface, shoulder seam smooth and straight, symmetrical on the left and right sides.
Sleeves Sleeves round and smooth, easing uniform, two sleeves uniform in the length and in front and back sides.
3.12 Whole ironing appearance
3.12.1 Each position is ironed flatly, tidily and free from over-press, water stain and light.
3.12.2 The position covered by the adhesive interlining shall be free from degumming, bleed through and wrinkling; the surface at each position shall be free from being stained with adhesive.
3.13 Physical and chemical property
Physical and chemical property of the finished products shall be according to those specified in Table 6.
Table 6
Items Classification requirements
High-class products First-grade product Qualified products
Fiber content In conformity with FZ/T 01053
Formaldehyde content/(mg/kg) In conformity with GB 18401
pH value
Dissolvable carcinogenic aromatic amines dye/(mg/kg)
Peculiar smell
Dimensional change ratio/% Dry cleaning Coats length:-1.0~+1.0; Chest girth: -0.8~+0.8
Water washing Coats length:-1.5~+1.5; Chest girth: -1.0~+1.0
Wrinkle grade after dry cleaning/grade >4 4 ≥3
Peeled off strength at position covered with adhesive interlining/
[N/(2.5cm×10cm)] ≥6
Shell fabric color fastness/grade Fastness to dry cleaning Color change ≥4-5 ≥4 ≥3-4
Staining ≥4-5 ≥4 ≥3-4
Fastness to soaping Color change ≥4 ≥3-4 ≥3-4
Staining ≥4 ≥3-4 ≥3
Fastness to water Color change ≥4 ≥4 ≥3-4
Staining ≥4 ≥3-4 ≥3
Fastness to friction Dry friction ≥4 ≥3-4 ≥3
Wet friction ≥3-4 ≥3 ≥2-3
Fastness to light Light ≥4 ≥3 ≥3
Dark ≥4 ≥4 ≥3
Lining color fastness/grade Fastness to dry cleaning Staining ≥4 ≥4 ≥3-4
Fastness to soaping Staining ≥4 ≥3-4 ≥3
Fastness to water Staining ≥4 ≥3-4 ≥3
Fastness to dry friction ≥4 ≥3-4 ≥3
Decorating parts and embroidery fastness to soaping and dry cleaning and staining/grade ≥3-4
Surface fuzzing and pilling of shell fabric/grade Combing (woolen surface) ≥3-4 ≥3 ≥3
Combing (smooth surface) ≥4 ≥3-4 ≥3-4
Carding ≥3-4 ≥3 ≥3
Slipping/cm ≤0.6
Tear strength of shell fabric/N ≥10
According to those specified in GB/T 4841.3, it is dark color if the color is larger than 1/12 standard depth of dye staining, if the colour is less than or equal to 1/12, it is light color.
Note 1: Only the washing products indicated in the instructions for use shall be assessed with color fastness to wet friction, water-washing dimensional change ratio and colour fastness to soaping.
Note 2: Nonwoven liner shall not be assessed with peeled off strength at the position covered with adhesive interlining.
Note 3: It is judged as qualified if the test results of the slipping show that the fabric has fracture, tearing or the suture has rupture, but it is unqualified if slippage phenomenon appears.
4 Test Method
4.1 Inspection tools
4.1.1 Steel tape.
4.1.2 Gray scale for assessing change in colour (GB/T 250).
4.1.3 Wrinkling photograph of men's suits appearance.
4.1.4 Photograph for appearance defects of the men's and women's woolen garments.
4.1.5 Pilling photograph of combing woolen fabric (woolen surface) (GB/T 4802.1), pilling photograph of combing woolen fabric (smooth surface) (GB/T 4802.1) and pilling photograph of carding woolen fabric (GB/T 4802.1).
4.1.6 Dress stand.
4.2 Determination of finished products dimension
Measuring methods for the main positions of the finished products shall be according to those specified in Table 7 and Figure 2 and the allowable deviation shall be according to 3.10.
Table 7
Position name Measuring method
Coat length Vertically measure from the highest point of the shoulder seam of left front to the bottom edge, or vertically measure from the rear collar to the bottom edge
Chest girth Do up bottoms (or close zipper), flatten front and back part, and horizontally measure along arm hole bottom seam (calculate the periphery)
Collar size Flatten collar and transversely measure it, except the overlap. The open collar shall not be assessed.
Total shoulder width Measure transversely from the intersection points of the seam between shoulder and sleeve.
Sleeve length Inserting sleeve Measure from the highest points of the sleeve cap to the middle of sleeve opening edge.
Raglan sleeve Measure from the middle of the back collar to the sleeve opening edge along the highest point of the sleeve cap.
Note: Those under the special needs shall be according to the regulations of the enterprises.
4.3 Appearance determination
4.3.1 Stripes matching and plaid matching shall be according to those specified in 3.5.
4.3.2 During the determination of color difference, the tested position shall have consistent yarn direction and lighted with north sky light or equivalent light source of 600lx or above 600lx. The incident light shall be in a 45° angle with the tested objects; the observation direction shall be vertical with the tested objects with a distance of 60cm through visual inspection. The color difference shall be in accordance with 3.7 and compared with the scale in GB/T 250.
4.3.3 The contents to which the defects at each position of the finished products are allowable shall be according to 3.8 and the defects shall be compared with the photograph of the appearance defects of the woolen garments.
4.3.4 The sewing shall be in accordance with 3.9 and the stitch length density shall be measured by adopting any 3cm on the seaming stitch of the finished products (except thick and thin positions).
Foreword I
1 Scope
2 Normative References
3 Requirements
4 Test Method
5 Inspection Classification Rule
6 Marking, Packing, Transport and Storage
Appendix A (Normative) Test Methods for Slipping Degree of Seam
