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This document is developed in accordance with the rules given in GB/T 1. 1-2020 Directives for standardization—Part 1: Rules for the structure and drafting of standardizing documents.
This standard replaces GB/T 14272-2011 Down garment. The following main technical changes have been made with respect to GB/T 14272-2011:
a) “Application scope” is modified (see Clause 1 hereof; Clause 1 of Edition 2011);
b) “Normative references” is supplemented and modified (see Clause 2 hereof; Clause 2 of Edition 2011) .
c) “Terms and definitions" is modified (see Clause 3 hereof; Clause 3 of Edition 2011);
d) Requirements of label review are modified. “Net fill weight" is changed to "down cluster"; the marking and grading of the down content are added (see 4.1 hereof; 4.1 of Edition 2011).
e) Requirements of raw materials are changed (see 4.3 hereof; 4.3 of Edition 2011).
f) Sewing requirements are changed (see 4.8 hereof; 4.9 of Edition 2011).
g) The requirements for permissible deviation of the specifications and dimensions are changed (see 4.9 hereof; 4.10 of Edition 2011).
h) Ironing requirements are changed (see 4.10 hereof; 4.11 of Edition 2011).
i) Physical and chemical performance requirements are changed. The following requirements are added: down garments for infants and children shall also meet the requirements of GB 31701; limit requirements for the Alkylphenols (AP) and Alkylphenol ethoxylates (APnEO) in down filler; assessment requirements for color fastness to perspiration, color fastness to cross-staining, and appearance after washing; the assessment requirements for colour fastness to washing and staining, color fastness to wet rubbing, color fastness to light, seam slippage and down penetration resistance are changed (see 4.11 hereof; 4.12 of Edition 2011).
j) Inspection methods are modified (see Clause 5 hereof; Clause 5 of Edition 2011);
k) Annex A "Requirements for down quality" is changed (see Annex A hereof; Annex A of Edition 2011).
l) Annex B "Test method for net fill weight of garments" is changed (See Annex B hereof; Annex B of Edition 2011).
m) Annex C "Test method for feather and down" is deleted (see Annex C of Edition 2011).
n) Method for "determination of down fill power—steam reduction method" is added (see Annex C).
o) Annex D "Test methods for slipping degree of seam", Annex E "Test method of the fabric down-drilling-resistant property-friction test method" and Annex F "Microstructures and features of goose and duck feather and down" are deleted (see Annex D, Annex E and Annex F of Edition 2011).
p) Annex D "Test method for down penetration resistance of down garments—tumble test" is added (see Annex D hereof).
Attention is drawn to the possibility that some of the elements of this document may be the subject of patent rights. The issuing body of this document shall not be held responsible for identifying any or all such patent rights.
This standard was proposed by the China National Textile and Apparel Council.
This standard is under the jurisdiction of National Technical Committee on Garments of Standardization Administration of China (SAC/TC 219).
The previous edition of this standard is as follows:
This standard was first issued in 1993 with the serial number of GB/T 14272-1993 and first revised in 2002 and second revised in 2011;
——This is the third revision.
Down garments
1 Scope
This standard specifies terms and definitions, requirements, inspection methods, inspection rules as well as marking, packaging, transportation and storage of down garments.
This document is applicable to garments consisting of woven fabrics as main fabrics and down filling. Other fillings may be used for placket, bag cover, hood, collar and other small parts.
This document does not apply to garments which are filled with down and fiber or filled with fiber in a layered or compartmentalized manner.
2 Normative references
The following documents contain provisions which, through reference in this text, constitute provisions of this document. For dated references, only the edition cited applies. For undated references, the latest edition of the referenced document (including any amendments) applies.
GB/T 250 Textiles—Tests for color fastness—Grey scale for assessing change in color
GB/T 1335 (All parts) Standard sizing systems for garments
GB/T 3921-2008 Textiles—Tests for colour fastness—Colour fastness to washing with soap or soap and soda
GB/T 5296.4 Instructions for use of products of consumer interest—Part 4: Textiles and apparel
GB/T 6529 Textiles—Standard atmospheres for conditioning and testing
GB/T 8170 Rules of rounding off for numerical values & expression and judgment of limiting values
GB/T 8427-2019 Textiles—Tests for colour fastness—Colour fastness to artificial light: Xenon arc fading lamp test
GB/T 8629-2017 Textiles—Domestic washing and drying procedures for textile testing
GB/T 10288-2016 Test method for down and feather
GB/T 14801 Test method for skewness and bow in woven and knitted fabrics
GB/T 15557 Standard terminology relating to apparel
GB/T 17685 Down and feather
GB 18401 National general safety technical code for textile products
GB/T 21294 Testing methods of physical and chemical performance of garments
GB/T 21295-2014 Requirements of physical and chemical performance of garments
GB/T 23322-2018 Textiles—Determination of surfactant—Alkylphenols and alkylphenol ethoxylates
GB/T 29862 Textiles—Identification of fiber content
GB/T 31127-2014 Textiles—Tests for colour fastness—Colour fastness to transfer in joints
GB 31701 Safety technical code for infants and children textile products
GB/T 31702 Testing method for sharpness of attached components on textile products
GB/T 31907 Method of garment measurement
FZ/T 80002 Marking, packaging, transportation and storage for garments
FZ/T 80004 Rule for garments delivery inspection
Sample photo of Grade 5 appearance defects and sewing wrinkle of down garments (The Ministry of Textile Industry of the People's Republic of China)
Sample photos of appearance defects on M&F unlined and cotton wadded garments and girls’ and boys' unlined garments (Ministry of Textile Industry of the People's Republic of China)
3 Terms and definitions
For the purposes of this document, the terms and definitions given in GB/T 17685 and GB/T 15557, as well as the following, apply.
3.1
down garments
garments with down filler and down cluster not less than 50%
3.2
filling shell
fabric or non-woven fabric wrapped with down between the shell fabric and the lining
3.3
baby and infant
children aged 36 months and below
Note: It generally refer to children up to and including a height of 100 cm.
4 Requirements
4.1 Instructions for use
It shall comply with GB/T 5296.4 and GB 31701. The down filler shall be marked with the down category, down cluster content and net fill weight. Down cluster content shall be marked and graded according to Table A.1 in Annex A.
4.2 Size specification
4.2.1 Size specification shall be set according to the requirements of GB/T 1335 (all parts).
4.2.2 The specification of primary parts shall be designed independently in accordance with the relevant requirements of GB/T 1335 (all parts).
4.3 Raw materials
4.3.1 Shell fabric
Shell fabrics that meet the requirements of this document should be used, and shell fabrics that are directly quilted with down shall have down penetration resistance.
4.3.2 Lining and filling shell
4.3.2.1 The lining and filling shell should fit with the shell fabrics used and meet the requirements of this document.
4.3.2.2 Air-tight fabrics and films shall not be used.
4.3.2.3 The lining and filling shell which are directly quilted with down shall have down penetration resistance.
4.3.3 Filler
4.3.3.1 The indicated value of down cluster content shall not be lower than 50%.
4.3.3.2 The net fill weight of the garments is deviated from the indicated value by not less than -5.0%.
4.3.3.3 The down quality requirements are in accordance with Annex A.
Note: Other indexes of down filler beyond this document shall be determined by the seller and the buyer according to the product requirements.
4.3.4 Accessory materials
4.3.4.1 Interlining, shoulder pad, border lace, bagging
Interlining, shoulder pad, border lace and bagging used should be suitable for the performance of the shell fabrics and lining and shall meet the quality requirements of this standard.
4.3.4.2 Stitch thread, rope belt, elastic ribbon
Stitch thread, rope belt and elastic ribbon (except ornamental thread and belt) used should be suitable for the performance of the shell fabric, lining and accessory materials.
4.3.4.3 Buttons, zippers and other accessories
Buttons (except ornamental buttons), zippers and other accessories used should be suitable for the shell fabrics. Button, ornamental button, zipper and other accessories shall be smooth in surface, and free of burr, damage, defect and accessible sharp tip or edge. The zipper shall mesh in good condition and run smoothly.
Note: Accessible sharp tip or edge are the sharp edge and tip on finished product that may cause harm to human skin under normal wearing.
4.4 Warp and weft yarn
4.4.1 The front warp yarn shall be subject to the placket line and shall not be inclined.
4.4.2 The back warp yarn shall be subject to the back center line, and the inclination shall not be greater than 1.0 cm. The coat shall not be inclined more than 1.5 cm, and the checkered materials shall not be inclined.
4.4.3 The warp yarn of the sleeve shall be subject to the straight line of the front sleeve seam, and the inclination of top sleeve and under sleeve shall not be more than 1.0cm and 1.5 cm (except for special process) respectively.
4.4.4 The front hem shall not be warped, and the yarn skew of the back, sleeves and front and back pants (skirts) shall be as specified in Table 1.
Table 1
%
Shell fabric Skew degree
Superior product First-grade product Acceptable product
Varied color/design and color ≤3 ≤4 ≤5
Strip and plaid matching ≤2 ≤2.5 ≤3
4.5 Strip and plaid matching
4.5.1 Obvious strips or plaids of 1.0 cm or above on shell fabric shall comply with those specified in Table 2.
Table 2
In: cm
Position Requirements for strip and plaid matching Remarks
Left and right fronts Strips shall be straight and plaids shall match each other horizontally with the mutual deviation not greater than 0.3 The plaid size is inconsistent and the upper part of 1/3 of the front shall prevail
Pocket, pocket flap and bodice a Strips are matched with each other and plaids are matched each other horizontally, with the mutual deviation not greater than 0.3 If the sizes of plaids are different, the center on the forepart of pocket shall prevail
Collar corner Strips and plaids are symmetrical bilaterally, with the mutual deviation not greater than 0.3 In case of shadow strips and plaids, apparent strips and plaids shall prevail
Sleeves The two sleeves shall be smooth and straight, and strip and plaid shall be symmetrical by the sleeve top with the mutual deviation not greater than 1.0 —
Side seam of trousers (skirt) Plaids shall match each other horizontally 10.0 below the side seam pocket mouth, with the mutual deviation not greater than 0.5 —
Front and back crotch seam Strips and plaids shall be symmetrical, and plaids shall match each other horizontally with the mutual deviation not greater than 0.5 —
Notes:
1 The strips and plaids with color cycling shall be matched with each other based on the cycle.
2 Except for special design.
a For shell fabrics with obvious strips and plaids between 0.5 (inclusive) and 1.0, their mutual deviation is not more than 1/5 of the strips and plaids.
4.5.2 The grain direction of nip-up and down pile and checkerboard fabric is consistent all over the body.
4.5.3 Shell fabric with special pattern shall be subject to the main pattern and the grain direction all over the body shall be consistent.
4.6 Chromatic aberration
4.6.1 The chromatic aberration of sleeve seam, side seam and crotch seam shall not be lower than Grade 3-4, otherwise the chromatic aberration shall not be lower than Grade 4. Chromatic aberration arising from multi-layer fabrics or adhesive lining is not lower than Grade 3-4.
4.6.2 The chromatic aberration between tops and bottoms of suits shall not be lower than Grade 3-4.
4.7 Appearance defects
The defects allowed for each garments part shall comply with those specified in Table 3. See Figure 1 for each garment part. Only one kind of defect is allowed in each part, and the allowable defect degree meets the requirements in Table 3.
Table 3
Defect Degree at each part
Part 1 Part 2 Part 3
Yarn fault Slight fault, with a total length of 1.0 cm or less; obvious fault is not allowed Slight fault, with a total length of 2.0 cm or less; obvious fault is not allowed Slight fault, with a total length of 4.0 cm or less; obvious fault, with a total length of 2.0 cm or less
Granulated rough yarn Not allowed Not allowed Not allowed
Weft bar Not allowed Obvious one is not allowed One not wider than 0.2 cm
Spots (oil stain and color spot) Not allowed Slight one, with the total area not more than 0.3am2; obvious one is not allowed Slight one, with the total area not more than 0.5 cm2; obvious one is not allowed
Holes, abrasions, cobwebs Not allowed Not allowed Not allowed
Note: Description of defect degree:
——Slight: defects which are invisible intuitively but recognizable by careful identification.
——Obvious: defects which have no influence on the overall effect, but can be obviously felt.
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a) Division of front and back parts
Figure 1 Each garment part
b) Hats
c) Division of long front and back parts
Figure 1 Each garment part (continued)
d) Trousers
Keys of index numbers:
1——Part 1;
2——Part 2;
3——Part 3.
Figure 1 Each garment part (continued)
4.8 Sewing
4.8.1 See Table 4 for the symmetry of horizontal surface basting.
Table 4
In: cm
Part Symmetry of horizontal surface basting
Overlap For the left and right front basting, the mutual deviation is not greater than 0.4
No overlap For the left and right front basting, the mutual deviation is not greater than 0.3
Sleeve line The basting is aligned and the mutual deviation is not greater than 0.6
Side seam The basting is aligned from front to back and the mutual deviation is not greater than 0.6
Inseam The basting is aligned from front to back and the mutual deviation is not greater than 0.8
4.8.2 The longitudinal surface basting shall be bilaterally symmetrical.
4.8.3 The stitch density shall comply with those specified in Table 5.
Table 5
Item Stitch density Remarks
Top and blind stitches Not less than 12 stitches/3cm Except for special design
Quilted stitch Not less than 9 stitches/3cm —
Buttonhole Not less than 14 stitches/1 cm Thin thread
Over-lock stitch Not less than 9 stitches/3cm —
Note: Thin thread is 20 tex or below.
4.8.4 The sewing of all parts shall be smooth, straight, regular and firm. The wrinkle and shrinkage in main surface sewing parts shall not be lower than Grade 3 according to the requirements of Sample photo of Grade 5 appearance defects and sewing wrinkle of down garments.
4.8.5 The upper and lower threads are approximate in the elasticity and free from broken stitches. There shall be back stitches at the start-stop stitch.
4.8.6 Buttons shall be matched with buttonholes. Snap buttons shall be firm and aligned, matched properly, and free from deformation or over tightness.
4.8.7 Collar is flat and smooth. The top collar is appropriate in tightness.
4.8.8 The set in sleeve shall be round and smooth and two sleeves shall be basically consistent with each other at the front and back.
4.8.9 The symmetrical parts shall be basically consistent.
4.8.10 Trademark and permanent labels shall be flat and smooth and correct in position.
4.8.11 Continuous skipping stitches or more than one individual skipping stitch are not allowed at each part within 30 cm sewing thread. The chain stitch shall not be skipped.
4.9 Permissible deviation of specification and dimension
The permissible deviation of specification and dimension for primary garment parts shall be according to those specified in Table 6.
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Table 6
In: cm
Part Permissible deviation of specification and dimension
Adults Infants and children
Coat length Tops ±1.5 -1.5～+2.5
Overcoat ±2.0 -1.5 to +3.5
Chest circumference ±3.0 -2.0 ~ +4.0
Collar size ±1.0 -0.8 ~ +1.5
Total shoulder width ±1.0 -0.8 ~ +2.0
Sleeve length Set in sleeve ±1.0 -1.0 ~ +2.0
Raglan sleeve ±1.5 -1.5 ~ +2.5
Trousers (skirt) length ±2.0 -1.5 ~ +3.0
Waist circumference ±1.5 -1.0 ~ +2.0
4.10 Ironing
4.10.1 All parts are ironed to be flat, smooth and tidy, without any overpress, water stain and pressing mark.
4.10.2 The adhesive interlining covered and coated positions shall be free from degumming, bleed-through, wrinkling and rubbling. Gumming is not allowed on the surface of each part.
4.11 Physical and chemical properties
4.11.1 Down garments for adults shall comply with Table 7.
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Table 7
Item Technical requirement
Superior product First-grade product Acceptable product
Fiber content/% Comply with GB/T 29862
Formaldehyde content/(mg/kg) Comply with Category C in GB 18401
pH value
Azo dyes/(mg/kg)
Odour
Alkylphenols and Alkylphenol ethoxylates (APnEO)a/(mg/kg) NONYLPHENOL (NP)+OCTYLPHENOL (OP) <10
NONYLPHENOL (NP)+OCTYLPHENOL (OP)
+NONYLPHENOL ethoxylate (NPnEO)+Octyl phenol polyoxyethylene ether (OPnEO) <100
Colour fastness of shell/Grade Colour fastness to washing Change ≥4 ≥3-4 ≥3-4
Staining ≥4 ≥3-4 ≥3-4
Colour fastness to water Change ≥4 -5 ≥4 ≥3-4
Staining ≥4 ≥3-4 ≥3
Colour fastness to rubbing Dry rubbing ≥4 ≥3-4 ≥3-4
Wet rubbing b ≥3-4 ≥3 ≥3
Colour fastness to perspiration Change ≥3-4 ≥3 ≥3
Staining ≥3-4 ≥3 ≥3
Colour fastness to light Dark ≥4 ≥4 ≥3
Light, fluorescent color ≥4 ≥3 ≥3
Cross-staining c Staining ≥4 -5 ≥4 ≥4
Colour fastness of lining/grade Colour fastness to washing Staining ≥4 ≥3-4 ≥3-4
Colour fastness to dry rubbing ≥4 ≥3-4 ≥3-4
Colour fastness to water They shall meet the requirements of Grade C as specified in GB 18401
Colour fastness to perspiration
Seam slippage d/cm Down garment with filling shell construction: seam slippage≤ 0.6;
Down garment without filling shell construction: seam slippage≤0.4
Amount of down leakage/(Pieces/m2) ≤40 ≤70 ≤120
Appearance after washing Colour change/grade ≥4
Appearance quality After washing, the sample shall meet the requirements for appearance quality in GB/T 21295-2014, Table 13.
Note: According to GB/T 4841.3, the color darker than 1/12 standard staining depth of dye is dark, while that lighter than or equal to 1/12 is light.
a Only down fillers are assessed. In alkylphenol ethoxylates (APnEO), n=2~16.
b Qualified product index of wet rubbing color fastness of pile, sanded, flocking fabrics and dark fabrics is allowed to be reduced by half grade than that specified in this standard.
c Only the products that have crossed dark and light parts are assessed for the color fastness to cross-staining.
d For down garment with filling shell construction, only fabrics and linings that are not quilted together with down are assessed for the slippage; fabrics with decorative outer layer are not assessed. The seam performance is judged as unsatisfactory in case of any yarn slippage, fabric tearing and stitch breakage in the slippage test result.
4.11.2 Down garments for children shall meet the requirements of GB 31701 and Table 7.
4.11.3 Down garments for baby and infant shall meet the requirements of GB 31701 and Table 8.
Foreword
1 Scope
2 Normative references
3 Terms and definitions
4 Requirements
5 Test methods
6 Inspection rules
7 Marking, packaging, transportation and storage
Annex A (Normative) Requirements for down quality
Annex B (Normative) Test method for net fill weight of garments
Annex C (Normative) Determination of down fill power—steam reduction method
Annex D (Normative) Test method for down penetration resistance of down garments—garment transfer method to boxes
