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This Standard was drafted in accordance with the rules specified in GB/T 1.1- 2009.
This Standard is the revision for FZ/T 73018 - 2002 "Wool Knitting Goods". The main changes of this Standard compared with FZ/T 73018 - 2002 are listed as follows:
-The application scope was changed as follows: this standard is applicable to assess the quality of pure combing and carding wool knitting goods,and wool blend knitting goods containing 30% or above wool. This Standard may be implemented for other animal hair fibers by reference.
- Normative references were modified.
- Contents that shall meet GB 18401 were added into the safety requirements.
- The main contents modified in physical index grading are as follows:
? The fiber content was changed in implementation according to FZ/T 01053;
? The classification for yarn lineal density of bursting strength was modified by reference to IWS product standard AK -1 "Knitted Garments Products" (Edition 2011), and the remarks was changed as follows: only the products with 30% or above plain-knitted area are assessed; vest and small garments are not assessed;
? The unit of knitting density coefficient was cancelled and the remarks were changed as follows: only plain-knitted, ribbing and double ribbing carded products were assessed;
? The spirality angle index in appearance quality grading was listed into physical index grading;
? The deviation ratio of unit weight was changed to the deviation ratio of unit mass.
-The relevant requirements of dimensional change ratio after washing were modified by reference to IWS product standard AK -1 "Knitted Garments Products" (Edition 2011), and the main contents modified are as follows:
? Correspond the relaxation washing procedure and felting washing procedure to relaxation dimensional change ratio index and felting dimensional change ratio index respectively;
? For the overall dimension change rate along the length of such fulling milling products as careful handwashed cardigan, slipover and vest, the index requirement was changed from - 10% into - 5%;
? Relaxation washing procedure 1× 7 A was added for machine-washable trousers and skirts.
-The main contents modified in color fastness grading are as follows:
? The provision that "One item is allowable below half grade in first-grade products; if two items of the product are below half grade or one item is below one grade, it shall be degraded as second-grade product; any product below second-grade product shall be degraded as substandard product." was cancelled;
? The perspiration (acidity) resistance index and dry-cleanse resistance index were added;
? The first-class product requirement of dark product with light fastness was changed from Grade 3-4 to Grade 4, and the tinct change of washing fastness and water fastness were upgraded from Grade 3 to Grade 3-4;
? The index requirements for second-grade product were added;
? The index requirements for printing part as well as the perspiration resistance and friction resistance of first-grade hang dyeing products were added.
? The main contents modified in appearance quality grading are as follows:
? The grading requirements for the appearance quality of the actual materials were cancelled;
? Classification assessment was adopted for the main specification dimension permissible deviation in width direction, and it is classified as follows: 55cm or above is ± 1.5 cm, and less than 55cm is ± 1.0 cm;
? For appearance defects grading, rating according to the items for sealed sample was changed into rating according to Subjectivity. The "naked thread end" defect and requirements were added.
? The main contents modified for test methods are as follows:
? The inspection method of safety requirements was added;
? Test area was specified for bursting strength test;
? 1×7A was adopted for the washing method in spirality angle test;
? Two methods (acid liquor, alkali liquor) were adopted for perspiration resistance test;
? The dry-cleanse resistance test method was added;
? Diagram for main measuring position was added into specification and dimension inspection method.
-The sampling and judgment methods for inherent quality and appearance quality were modified.
-The specification and dimension label provisions were modified; the provision that "the ready- to-wear size designation may also be labeled according to GB/T 1335.1 ~ 1335.3" was added; for other products, it was changed into labeling the specification and dimension of main part.
-For Appendix A, the provisions that "the relevant requirements of fiber content in pure wool products" and "the appearance of actual material sealed sample and defect sealed sample" were cancelled; the provisions for "naked thread end" defect were added into appearance defects explanation; the appearance defects degree explanation was added.
This Standard was proposed by China National Textile and Apparel Council (CNTAC).
This part is proposed by and under the jurisdiction of the Subcommittee on Wool Spinning of National Technical Committee on Textiles of Standardization Administration of China.
The drafting organizations of this Standard: The inspection centers of Beijing Wool Textile Research Institute, HengYuanXiang (Group) Corporation Limited, Jiangyin Xiang Fei Apparal Company Limited, Zhejiang QianShengXi Apparal Company Limited, Tongxiang City ShengBaiRong Apparel Company Limited and Beijing Snow - Lotus Group Company Limited.
Chief drafting staffs of this standard: Li Lirong, He Aifang, Zhou Wan, Chen Jiangen, Zhao Wei and Shao Zhijing.
The previous editions replaced by this standard are as follows:
-FZ/T 73018-2002;
-FZ/T 73003~73004-1991, FZ/T 24006-1995.
Contents
Foreword I
1 Scope 1
2 Normative Reference 1
3 Classification 2
4 Technical Requirements 2
5 Test Methods 8
6 Inspection Rules 12
7 Acceptance Rules 13
8 Packing and Marking 14
9 Others 14
Appendix A (Normative) Several Supplementary Provisions 15
Wool Knitting Goods
毛針織品
1 Scope
This Standard specifies classification, technical requirements, test methods, inspection and acceptance regulations as well as packaging and markings for the wool knitting goods.
This Standard is applicable to assess the quality of combing and carding wool knitting goods and wool blend knitting goods containing 30% or above wool. It may be implemented for other animal hair fibers by reference.
2 Normative Reference
The following referenced documents are indispensable for the application of this document. For dated references, only the dated versions are applicable to this standard. For undated references, the latest edition of the normative document (include all the amendments) is applicable to this Standard.
GB/T 250 Textiles-Tests for Colour Fastness-Grey Scale for Assessing Change in Colour
GB/T 1335 Standard Sizing Systems for Garments
GB/T 2828.1-2003 Sampling Procedures for Inspection by Attributea-Part1:Sampling Schemes Indexed by Acceptance Quality Limit (AQL) for Lot-by-Lot Inspection
GB/T 2910 (All Parts) Textiles-Quantitative Chemical Analysis
GB/T 3920 Textiles-Tests for Colour Fastness-Colour Fastness to Rubbing
GB/T 3922 Textiles--Testing Method for Colour Fastness to Perspiration
GB/T 4802.3 Textiles-Determination of Fabric Propensity to Surface Fuzzing and to Pilling-Part 3: Pilling Box Method
GB/T 4841.3 Colour Cards of Standard Depths for Dyeing with Dyestuffs 2/1, 1/3, 1/6, 1/12, 1/25
GB/T 4856 Package of Cotton Goods and Knitwear
GB 5296.4 Instructions for Use of Products of Consumer Interest - Part 4: Textiles and Apparel
GB/T 5711 Textiles-Tests for Colour Fastness-Colour Fastness to Dry Cleaning
GB/T 5713 Textiles-Tests for Colour Fastness-Colour Fastness to Water
GB/T 7742.1-2005 Textiles-Bursting Properties of Fabrics-Part 1: Hydraulic Method for Determination of Bursting Strength and Bursting Distension
GB/T 8427-2008 Textiles - Tests for Color Fastness - Color Fastness to Artificial Light: Xenon Arc Fading Lamp Test
GB 9994 Conventional Moisture Regains of Textiles
GB/T 9995 Determination of Moisture Content and Moisture Regain of Textile-Oven-Drying Method
GB/T 12490-2007 Textiles-Tests for Colour Fastness-Colour Fastness to Domestic and Commercial Laundering
GB/T 16988 Quantitative Determination for Mixtures of Special Animal Fiber and Wool
GB 18401 National General Safety Technical Code for Textile Products
FZ/T 01026 Textiles-Quantitative Chemical Analysis-Quaternary Fiber Mixtures
FZ/T 01053 Textiles-Identification of Fiber Content
FZ/T 01057 (All Parts) Test Method for Identification of Textile Fibers
FZ/T 01095 Textile--Test Method of Elastane Fiber Content
FZ/T 01101 Textile Test Method-Fiber Content-Quantitative Physical Analysis
FZ/T 20011-2006 Test Method for Determining the Angle of Spirality in Knitted Wool Garments
FZ/T 20018 Determination of Dichloromethane-Soluble Matter in Wool Textiles
FZ/T 30003 Method for Quantitative Analysis of Ramie (Flax Hemp) Cotton Blended Textile-Micro Projection
FZ/T 70008 Method for Determination of The Cover Factor of Wool Knitted Fabrics
FZ/T 70009 Method for Determination of Relaxation and Felting Dimension Change Rate of Wool Textiles after Washing
3 Classification
The wool knitting goods may be classified according to the following items:
a) By variety:
1) Cardigan, slipover, vest;
2) Trousers, skirt;
3) Underwear;
4) Socks;
5) Small clothes (including hat, scarf and gloves).
b) By washing mode:
1) Dry cleaning;
2) Careful hand wash;
3) Machine washable.
4 Technical Requirements
4.1 Safety requirements
The basic safety technical requirements of wool knitting goods shall be in accordance with those specified in GB 18401.
4.2 Grading requirements
The quality grade of wool knitting goods takes piece as the unit; the grading is determined by the most inferior item of the results of inherent quality and appearance quality inspections and can be classified into superior, first-grade, and second-grade products and those inferior to the second grade are regarded as the off-grade.
4.3 Inherent quality grading
4.3.1 Inherent quality grading depends on the most inferior item of the results of physical indexes and color fastness inspections.
4.3.2 The physical indexes shall be graded according to those specified in Table 1 and Table 2.
Foreword I
1 Scope
2 Normative Reference
3 Classification
4 Technical Requirements
5 Test Methods
6 Inspection Rules
7 Acceptance Rules
8 Packing and Marking
9 Others
Appendix A (Normative) Several Supplementary Provisions
